If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner. back-clipping A potentially hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing, whereby the rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it. Bachar ladder A piece of training equipment used to improve campusing and core strength. Now largely superseded by the "V" grading system. B "B"-grade A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill.
automatic belay A fast method for setting up a two-point anchor in sport climbing, using the climbing rope to attach to the anchor points. ATC originally stood for "air traffic controller". The term has become generic for any tubular belay device. ATC A proprietary belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. aspect The geographical direction which a particular slope or rock wall faces, e.g. ascend To climb a rope using an aid device. When used often, this position has been known to over-stress the tendons in fingers and lead to injuries. This combines muscular effort with soft tissue tensions in order to apply the load. In this position, typically the first set of knuckles are hyperextended and the second have a sharp angle of about 90 degrees. arqué (from the French word meaning arched) Used to describe crimping.
WORDS ROCK CRACK
arm bar A technique in which a climber jams an arm into a crack and locks it into place. A method of indoor climbing in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. A narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion. A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward-facing corner on a steep rock face. anchor An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor. American death triangle An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. Examples include the "'expansion knee,' by which the climber would overcome the lack of a piton large enough to fit a broad crack in the rock by inserting their knee into the crack, bending the leg to anchor, and hoisting themselves up to a level where a piton might be inserted." alpine start To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise. alpine knee To use one's knee as a way to gain ground on a climb. Alpine cock ring (ACR) An anchor method similar to a cordelette but that is dynamically equalizing. To climb "alpine style" generally means carrying all of one's gear in a backpack, even for multi-day climbs. May include a mixture of ice climbing and dry-tooling. alpine climbing Generally, any climbing that is done in the mountains, especially mountaineering. aid climbing Any style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds in snow or ice.
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